Today we spent almost the full day touring the Fes medina which dates back to the 8^th century,  as well as a separate section that dates back to the 14^th century.  The older medina, which means walled city, was laid out when the University of Al-Karouine was created in 859….yes, 859. The university is still in operation to this day with scholars from around the world attending. Within the oldest walled city, which has no vehicular access at all, there are over 62 miles of very narrow paths, alleys and walkways. After spending the day in them, we decided none of them are perpendicular or parallel to each other.

Over 156,000 people live within this 744 acre portion of the medina. It is the largest car-free urban area in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The only means of moving goods through the Medina is by 2 wheel push carts or donkeys (which wear rubber shoes to prevent stress and slipping for the donkeys).

So here is a part of the school that is no longer used for classes.

When I say some of the pathways are narrow, there is barely room for one person to walk in some areas and the walls go up 2 stories. You pretty much have to go with a guide; getting lost in here is very easy and very common. We spoke with a couple at our hotel who said they went into the medina by themselves but the first store they went into “assigned” them a boy who acted as their guide. When furniture is needed in a home, either a woodworker will come to the house and build the furniture in place, or it will be passed from rooftop to rooftop to get to your home. This means you must stay in very good relations with your neighbors!

We also toured the shopping district of the median, or souks, which means market. The goods sold are everything needed to live in the city without having to leave including electronics, snails for eating, fish, camel meat, spices, olives, clothing, wedding celebration furniture, etc., etc. The very sad part was that we had so much ground to cover through the medina there was no time for shopping!!

As you enter the tannery district, you are given a sprig of mint to hold under your nose to disguise the smell, although I did not think it smelled so bad. The sights and sounds of the men dying the leather in a myriad of color vats was simply mesmerizing. Several of them looked like they were stomping grapes in the vats!

Lunch was in a restaurant that had been converted from a home. The homes are all very plain looking from the outside with no windows. Light comes into them through an open courtyard which is also used to collect rainwater into cisterns. By the time the The Jewish Quarter and 14th century area were built, windows were being used.

We knew we wanted to purchase a rug and the chance was provided in the medina. We purchased a red Berber rug which is decorated with the tribal “tattoos” that the Berber women wear on their faces.  It was folded and then sewed into a bag with a little carrying handle. A 4×6 rug now is about 12 inches by 12 inches y 5 inches that we will be able to carry on the airplane. They packed it so quick I did not have time to get a photo. Come have coffee some time and see it!

We wish that there had been more time to shop as the metal smiths and leather crafters displays were dazzling. Oh well, better for the pocket. If we had been left behind, we would probably still be trying to find our way out!!